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N°162

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Domaine Boutillez Marchand

the elegance of the Blanc de Blancs

Boutillez Marchand is a family estate located in the village of Villers-Marmery, in the heart of the Mountain of Reims. It was founded in 1960 by Robert Boutillez, and taken over in 1997 by his daughter Marion who was then ... accountant. Speaking of a challenge to evoke the adventure that awaited her is an understatement. Marion had a real mountain to climb, higher than that of Reims ...

The advantage of being accountant, she says today in a smile, is that she was able to realize by herself the very critical situation of the winery. Fortunately she had a great asset, the terroir of Villers-Marmery. With its chalk and flint subsoil, Villers-Marmery is a micro-terroir for Chardonnay, in the heart of a region known for its Pinot Noirs. The subsoil brings a particular minerality, while the sun exposure gives the grapes a stronger maturity than in the Côte des Blancs area, bringing out fruitiness and freshness.

 

Paolo Basso et Marion Boutillez

To get started, Marion went through a training course in Avize. In 2001, she started making her own wine and she produced her first vintage in 2004. In 2007, her husband Jean Michel joined the estate. Since then, they work together. He is in the vineyard, she is at the property. All the works are manual, from the pruning to the harvest. The vineyard is maintained sustainably. Inputs are limited to the strict minimum. The press is pneumatic, approved qualitative. The fermentations are operated in thermoregulated stainless steel vats, with indigenous yeasts. Then the wine rests on its lees all winter before bottling. Malolactic fermentations start naturally. As for the reserve wines, they come from a perpetual reserve, a sort of solera arranged in a Champagne mode.

Out of the 6.4 hectares of the Boutillez-Marchand estate, 97% are planted with Chardonnay and 3%, or just 20 acres, with Pinot Noir. The latter will be used as a contribution to the blend of the Brut Rosé Premier Cru. All the other cuvées being Blanc de Blancs.
 

The emblematic cuvée is a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs, based on the 2014 harvest with 30% reserve wines. Then there are several vintage cuvees. The 2004, which spent ten years on the laths, is dosed at only 2 gr. This is Marion's favorite. 2005 and 2007 are both extra-brut. But the 2008 stands out. Dosed at 5 gr, it offers a wonderful aromatic richness. The house has also released a special cuvée, called Ecrin N°1, 100% vinified in oak barrels, with an extended aging on stirred lees that allows the tannins of the wood to melt with the fruits and give the wine aromas of pineapple and refreshing citrus.

Gérald Olivier

 

Paolo Basso's reviews

Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut Millesimé 2008

Straw-yellow with silvery tinges. Beautiful nose that first expresses quite classical aromas of brioche, melted butter, then aromas of herbs (thyme, oregano), green pepper and mint. Rich and moreish  palate based on freshness and acidity. Lovely tension and finish with a touch of pleasant astringency. Pleasant to serve for the aperitif or over dishes of fish with unctuous sauce that will balance the acidity.

 

Rosé 100 % Premier Cru Brut

Fairly intense pink colour with yellowish shades. Very intense and green nose with aromas of peony, fresh grass, green pepper and redcurrant. Well-structured and vinous palate with a rich and voluminous mid-palate, expressive and appetizing. Beautiful lingering finish with a delicately intense and moreish retro-olfaction. A cuvee to serve over finish soup, poultry, quails or roast veal.

 

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