Let’s head for Saint-Julien, the iconic name of the smallest prestigious village appellation of the Medoc with its 11 classed growths, and at the heart of the village, Château Léoville Poyferré, one of its most beautiful references. At the height of the harvest Arvid Rosengren, Best Sommelier of the World 2016, has been welcomed by Didier Cuvelier for a tasting of the last seven vintages of this grand wine full of magic.
Léoville Poyferré is a vineyard whose origins date back 1638 when Léoville was the biggest estate in the Médoc before it was carved up over time and generations. Château Léoville Poyferré appeared in 1840, then was ranked 2nd Grand Cru in 1855. In 1920 the Cuvelier family, native from the North of France, purchased it as well as the Cru Bourgeois Château Moulin Riche. The family still presides over this jewel from the Médoc. Didier Cuvelier who arrived in 1979 undertook an extensive planting and restructuring program, and implemented a top-notch working tool.
On a terroir that some say to be “blessed by nature” with its estuarine micro-climate and soils of gravels on mid elevations, Léoville Poyferré’s vineyard stretches over various groups of plots, a diversity that contributes to increasing the complexity of the wines produced. Whether for the work of the soils or of the vineyard Didier and his team seek to preserve the qualities of this exceptional terroir thanks to earthing up, inter-vine ploughing, scraping topsoils and fertilizing, pruning short and careful protection of the vineyard, to mention but a few examples of what is done. And 80 harvesters, the same for 5 years, come during 2 weeks to pick the grape at full maturity. At last, 100% destemming and optical sorting guarantee the top quality of the crop.
The whole vinification process is thought starting from plot selection. Frequency, duration of the pumping-over and temperature are thus adapted to the capacity of the 49 vinification tanks of the vathouse among which 27 double-walled conical vats that permit cold pre-fermentations. In the latter Didier Cuvelier vinifies the very best plots that make Léoville Poyferré every year. He thus gets a very pure fruit and extremely precise aromas. The best batches undergo malolactic fermentation in new barrels.
Of course Didier Cuvelier pays particular attention to the blending that Michel Rolland, his consultant, sums up: “We take samples of separate batches that each have their own personality. It is both simple and difficult, like marriage, because you have to find the right synergies”. Synergies that Arvid Rosengren could appreciate when tasting these exceptional wines that Léoville Poyferré’s grand wines are.
“Overall it is really interesting to see how consistent the style of Léoville Poyferré is. The quality is high in every vintage. After that, it is up to everyone to figure out what they like the best”, states Arvid Rosengren whose name is now written on the wall of fame at Léoville Poyferré.
Valérie Massot-Germe
Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien - 2nd Cru au Classement de 1855
The 2014 is a very compelling wine. More elegant and lean than 2015 but also aromatically complex with peppery, flowery, floral, some oriental spicy notes, a more classic Bordeaux for the package. A great balance of alcohol and acidity.
2014 : Really integrated, a well-structured and well-balanced wine. A great harmony between the darker fruit characters and the leaner elegant floral components, and a perfect integration of oak. I also appreciated that the alcohol was a little bit lower than in 2012 for example. 2011 was a very complete package. It will be ready to drink in a few years and it will be really good.
2010 : It is a pretty massive wine, really brooding, really dark, definitely complex and subtle, but it will need a long time to unfold and show its true nature and true beauty. That is one to put in the cellar for a long time.
to visit the estate:
lp.visite@leoville-poyferre.fr
Tél : + 33 (0)5 56 59 66 79
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