Domaine Robert-Denogent

Winegrower Burgundy

Domaine Robert-Denogent :
View of a rock now famous
Pouilly Fuissé is a pearl of light in the midst of the Mâcon winegrowing area. The historic Solutré rock looms over this appellation which rivals with the finest in Burgundy. Chardonnay, perhaps one of the most debased varieties in the world, here brings delicious elegance to wines of this region.

We should first speak about terroir in its historic sense: a village community that has succeeded in enhancing what Nature has offered. As in the definition of the appellation of origin: it is necessary to find a balance between natural and human factors. As is often the case, before embracing the profession of winemaker, Jean-Jacques and Annita Robert had very different careers, in the legal sector and in administration. But because there is a certain sense of duty when one comes from a long lineage of winegrowers, vine growing is simply in one’s blood and cannot be resisted. This is when emotion yields to passion and reasoning no longer exists.

For exactly 20 years, Jean-Jacques and Annita have associated their name with that of Denogent (grandfather) and have continued to cultivate 6.12 hectares of vines, to which are added several contracts with neighbours who have well-established vine growing skill, in the appellations of Saint Vérand and Mâcon. Their wines appeal to a largely international clientele. Given this family impetus, Nicolas, their son, has also chosen to work in the wine business. The dynasty is now strengthened.

Robert Tinlot: The wine market is extremely difficult these days. How have you managed to overcome the crisis and constitute a loyal clientele?
Jean-Jacques Robert: Our method is to seek harmony. We have an exceptional terroir, and we strive do everything we can to enable it to express its qualities. To achieve this, we take particular care of our natural environment for growing grapes. It takes good grapes to make good wine; this seems straightforward enough, but it is important not to be confined to extreme attitudes. In my opinion supervised growing leads to analysing the plant’s needs, its growth and protection. “Organic” methods present inflexibilities which are not always good. Why not biodynamic techniques that encourage the use of microcosms in the earth and also attempt to adjust to the overall balance of the stars and nature?

In your view, what are the qualities of good grapes?

We seek to make well-structured, rich, full-bodied wines. Therefore, our grapes are hand-picked, fairly late, in order to gather a very ripe crop. We sort the harvest and do not de-stem, but make the wine using whole bunches. Each wine corresponds to a specific terroir. We have a pneumatic press, so it is gentle with the grapes and in keeping with local tradition we carry out our fermentations in barrels. We buy a third of new barrels each year, so our barrels are used for one to three wines. The lees are stirred up in the barrels from time to time and the wine is bottled after 18 months. Our winemaking methods are identical for the grapes we buy from our winegrower friends in the neighbouring appellations Saint Vérand and Mâcon (white).

Are your methods influenced by adherence to traditions?

Firstly, we have demanding customers who guide us and provide reassurance. I think traditions should be respected, this is the requirement of the appellation of origin, but it should not be confused with continuing bad habits. From winemaking science it is essential to seek what helps us understand natural processes in order to make a wine that expresses its terroir. Nature is also capable of making vinegar, so we need to provide ideal conditions for making a wine that ultimately correspond to what consumers want and in fact they seek the same quality that has established the reputation of the appellation. Eminent forebears who built up this reputation are in a way our models, and in following their example we respect the wishes of our clientele. Reforms imposed by the INAO (National Institute for Appellations of Origin), the creation of specifications and ODGs (organizations for protection and management) should not lead to the standardisation of wines. We must convey our style to our wines and choose winemaking methods that enable us to achieve excellence from the range available to us. For example, we see no interest in adopting the screw cap or plastic cork. Cork is taken from a tree which contributes in a positive way to the amount of carbon emissions and when we select our corks, we seek the finest qualities. We are not guided by price, but by the satisfaction we will find in having perfect corks. In this way we have no problem.

Tell us about your lucky customers?

We export 80% of our production. The United States is in first position. We have representatives in all the states. After the USA and Canada, Europe is also a good market: Belgium, the United Kingdom, as well as Switzerland and Germany, where we sell our white wines even though these two countries are highly reputed for their own white wines. We also export to Italy and Spain. Beyond Europe, we export to China, in particular Shanghai, and we even have a market in India. In France our wines are aimed for wine shops and top-quality restaurants, especially Michelin-starred establishments. Our basis is the appellation of origin and our name guarantees the style of our wines.

The surrounding landscape of your domain is magnificent!

Yes, we chose winegrowing even though our studies and previous professions (I am a jurist and my wife was an inspector for the Department of Health) could have led us to a far more urban existence. But the world of wine is a sphere filled with people who are passionate about their job, and with each passing year they strive to succeed with each new vintage. It is a sector that evolves and offers opportunities for liberty and conviviality in an exceptional setting such as the place we find ourselves now, in Fuissé.
Robert Tinlot

Robert Tinlot

Domaine Robert-Denogent
71960 Fuissé
Tél. : 03 85 35 65 39
Fax : 03 85 35 66 69