For Maurice Velge, the wine is an old love story. He has wanted for a long time to realize his passion and he took the plunge in 1997 by acquiring 10 hectares of Clauzet. His objective was clear from the beginning. Being placed next to the greatest, Château Clauzet benefitted from all the excellent assets in terms of terroir. Maurice Velge set up the quality elements usually reserved for the Grand Crus of the Médoc.
Beginning with his team. José Bueno, having worked 23 years at the service of the Rotschild company, “has been seduced by the challenge”. He now is the manager of Maurice Velge's vineyards. “Mouton is a school of art embroidery where every tiny little detail has a major importance.” This is the added value he brings to the wines of Clauzet and Côme.
Maurice Velge patiently extended his domain. Today Château Clauzet (AOC Saint-Estèphe Cru Bourgeois Supérieur) covers 23 hectares, Château de Côme 7 (AOC Saint-Estèphe – Cru Bourgeois). According to the specifications of the appellation, the planted grape varieties are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), completed by Merlot (40%)—and 50-50 at Côme—of Cabernet Franc (2%) and of Petit Verdot (3%) at Clauzet. The old vines (30-40 years) is undoubtedly another asset for the quality. “We try to preserve these old base at any price, it is our most precious capital”, José Bueno explains.
“There is a real difference of character between Côme and Clauzet", explains Maurice Velge. It lies in the soil. Château Clauzet sits on hilltops of deep gravels, on the line of excellent between Margaux and Saint-Estèphe. The variety of these soils ensures to play on a very rich range of nuances and to reach a broad complexity of aromas.
Located on the best clay and limestone plots of the village, Château de Côme can produce a silky wine with a great subtlety, with melted and well-balanced tannins, mainly focusing on fruitiness and nobility, with a very good length on the palate, at the same time the most Saint-Julien-like and the most feminine of the Saint-Estèphes. Château de Côme is certified organic.
For the management of the vineyard, the main task here is observation. Nothing is systematic. “We spend a lot of time in the field. Vine is an incredible plant. Take care of your vines and they will pay you back.” The vineyard is worked plot by plot, vine by vine. So it is for the grape harvest. Maturity is closely watched over. José Bueno gives an example: “2013 was a good year for us because we anticipated the gap of maturity and operate selection on the stocks. We harvested really beautiful fruits.” Of course, in the name of the quality requirement, the harvests are done in crates.
Wine making of course is operated by plot and does not follow predefined rules. To José Bueno it is about adapting to each plot, every grape variety, to get the best. Since 2008, the Baron Velge has recourse to Eric Boissenot to support them. They chose for an extraction by long maceration (21 days) to get all the values out of the grapes. The elevage is operated in barrels (30 to 40% of new wood for Clauzet, 20% for Côme) during 14 months on average.
The elevage is a major stage and José Bueno takes great care of the wines at every phase and handling. Pumpings are forbidden, everything is made by hand. The Baron Velge's wines are finely built. “Our wines have brilliant first tastes. That is what the consumers expect”, the Baron Velge confides.
In April, Maurice Velge received Paolo Basso for a vertical tasting of Château Clauzet (2000-01-05-07-08-10-11-12-13 and 2014) and Château de Côme (2001-03-05-07-08-09-10-11-12-13 and 2014). “He defined very precisely the difference of character, Maurice Velge confides. We have had interesting exchanges on the possible evolution of my wines.” Advices that will help Maurice Velge and José Bueno to continue their progress towards excellence.
Sylvia van der Velden
Château Clauzet 2008
Discreet nose because of its youth, a ripe fruity side, sweet spices, toasty note. On the palate, the wine is warm and tasty, a beautiful material, full-bodied, quite fine tannins, tasty and pleasant finish. A success for this vintage.
Château Clauzet 2011
A fine woody side with notes of vanilla and balsamic aroma, smoked and ripe fruity side. Warm and voluminous first taste, rich but with a solid and male character, a medium body, the tannins slightly lack flesh, medium finish. But very pleasant nevertheless. Ageing: 2017-2025, can be appreciate when young.
Château de Côme 2007
Discreet nose, with cooked wild berries, cumin. Warm first taste, linear, cooked fruit, light tannins, quite discreet medium finish. Ageing: 2015-2020.
Château de Côme 2011
Nice nose with ripe fruits, sloes, mild spices and finely toasty side. Beautiful expression at first taste, straight evolution, medium structure, firm tannins and delicate finish. Ageing: 2017-2012.
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